We left Winton in direction Boulia maybe the Min Min light will find us... but we made a detour via the Diamantina National Park where we were invaded by flies. They were so many we could only sit under the mosquito net and they were still annoying and trying to get into our ears. They didn't follow the rules to disappear when the sun is down and just appear when the sun is up for two hours of so. In Boulia we camped near the riverbank and had a swim in
the aquatic centre (which offered a gym, squash...). As the Min Min light didn't find us we visited the museum which was great. It reflected several stories about the light and how it appeared to the peoples (45 minutes well spent). Our next stop was Mt. Isa.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
12-14 October
9-11 October
We stayed three days in Winton – thanks to the free camp ground and the swimming pool. Winton is famous for the dinosaur bones so we drove to Lake Quarry to have a look at the Dinosaur track ways. This area must have been a lake 95 million years ago and a stampede has happened. They suppose that several (3 different kinds) were having a drink at the lake when a predator arrived who chased them – their footprints were clearly visible. Our guide even demonstrated how the dinos must have walked.
Before returning to Winton we drove the tourist drive “River Gum” which went through the bushland and the Bladensville National Park. This area is known for the massacre of Aborigines which happened at the “Skull Hole” and several clay pans (areas where no grass is growing and water runs to the nearest waterhole within seconds).
Back in Winton we looked at the Waltzing Matilda Museum (yes the song Waltzing Matilda was written in this area). It displayed a light show around an artificial billabong to showcase the lines in the song apart from this the museum was dedicated how the song has influenced the live in Winton and other rural things. The other museum is dedicated to the Opals which
are found in this area (Boulder Opal) and the curiosity of the largest deckchair in the world. We didn't look closely at the “Dinosaur bone preparation and preservation centre” as we arrived to late for the tour which meant we relaxed the whole afternoon in the pool as we did every afternoon...
7-8 October
Next stop is Longreach to visit the QANTAS founder museum, the Stockmen Hall of Fame and a School of Air. On the way we stopped in Ifracombe to relax in the spa which is free of charge. Arriving in
Longreach we noticed that we've internet again so we can contact our friends again... then we had a look at the free camp site (trying to save money whenever we can) but unfortunately it is not suitable for a tent – no shade and the ground is so hard you wouldn't get any pegs in so we had to find something else – a real expansive caravan park ($28) - most likely we have to cut our stay short and we did. We just had a look at the School of Air (Longreach School Of Distance Education) which was ok. We stepped into a room and then the speakers were switched on and we listened to a lesson. I didn't had any clue what the lesson was about of anything else – we just saw two teachers and a boy. 5 minutes later the speaker was switched off and the guide spoke two words before turning a DVD (the advertising DVD) on. After the DVD (probably 15 minutes) we walked into the building where we could touch everything and even take pictures excluding thea kids on the ground – if anyone would check. The only thing I remember is “you've to be Australian Citizen to get enrolled”.
We had a look at the admission fees for the Stockmen Hall of Fame and decided to have a look from the outside. The same thing happened at the Qantas Museum – so we just took pictures of the Boing 747 and 707 from the outside. If you wanted to see the planes directly you had to book a tour and were rushed around with 20 or more others. We took our seats in the car and drove to Winton and stayed at a free camp spot close to a waterhole which was man-build to have a fishing place.
4-6 October
Arriving in Isisford we had lunch/afternoon tea at the museum and went on to the camp ground Oma's Waterhole as we thought this would be less expensive than the one in the city and we decided not to watch the NRL final in the local pub. The camp ground was good – had flushing toilets and hot and cold showers. The camp ground looked a bit like the newly planned cities – one main street and several dead ends on either side with the houses at the end...
Next morning we drove into the town to pay for the camp site (cost just $2 per night) and discovered that the camp ground in the city costs the same – we could have watched the final... anyway we drove to our goal for the day – the Idalia National Park where you could see a wave shaped cliff – maybe similar to the Wave Rock in WA. It should even be possible to see Koalas in this park we were out of luck.
The other day we drove to Blackall to relax in the Artesian Spa and have a look at the Woolscour where someone shared over 300 sheep's within one day with blades – the record stood for over 50 years until it was beaten by a shearer using the shearers comb. In this area we saw the first wild pigs, several eagles and emus – all with young ones. Some emus even had four chicks – they must be thriving.
1-3 October
We left Charleville and drove to Qulpie where we stayed at a free campsite directly at a lake just 1km off the Highway. We shared the camp with cattle, swans and a goose. The goose must have been hand fed as it was coming so close we could have petted it and it came back every 5 minutes or so. Next day we drove to Eromanga – the town furthest away from any coastline. Of course we took a picture of the town entry sign and the sign which stated how far away the other major cities are... then we filled our additional diesel canister (the petrol station was quite interesting – adjacent to a oil factory and you had to walk into the office for payment.
Then we took the unpaved road to Jundah – our planned stop but we didn't go there. On the way we passed thru the Welford National Park and stayed there close to a waterhole. Next morning we took the Desert Drive to see a bit of the National Park and get an idea how the Simpson Desert might look like. There were several sand dunes – just like a red hill suddenly there... we took our shoes off and climbed one dune. We used the public shower facility in Jundah (there was no sign of any horse race the other day – so definite no problems we didn't arrive earlier.
We kept on driving to Isisford to stay at a recommended camp site. On the way we stopped at a scenic lookout – Swan Lookout which is a Jump Up. - Jump Ups are formed by wind and weather long time ago... they are an area where the top soil is tougher than the surrounding one and it won't erode and stick out like a hill and you can see for miles in every direction.
28-30 September
Being still in Mitchell we enjoy the Artesian Spa – hot mineral water and all natural in this region. The spa is really relaxing unless you've an older couple (aged 45+) who couldn't keep their hands off each other. It looked like they were having sex in the spa. - Not nice! The water is heated to 38C and has several massage tubes in it. Unfortunately the lap pool was closed on Monday so we couldn't go for a swim... but there will be tomorrow. We settled over to the camp spot “Fisherman's rest” nice free of charge spot (except of flies) directly at the water edge. Yes water edge and we're camping there – we're not in croc infested country yet. In the evening one local farmer came around offering his products – fresh lettuce and strawberries... which meant our dessert was saved – fresh, crisp and sweet strawberries.
Next day was meant for R&R; stayed long at the campsite just reading, then heading to town to do some shopping and another round in the spa and this time also the lap pool. The lap pool was not heated so it took a while before we entered but then swam several laps. The spa was not as nice as yesterday – it was really crowded, bit colder than yesterday and dirtier and the massage tubes had less power.
Then it was time to say good bye to Mitchell and travel further west – next stop Charleville. We are now 800km west from Brisbane. This town is famous for several things: Cosmos Centre, the start of Save the Bilby and someone who tried to create rain by shooting canons into the air in 1902. The Bilby experience was ok, cost just $5 and you could see the Bilbies in their enclosures. The only downturn was that we were around 40 people and had to watch a video which was screened on ABC or SBS.
The night cosmos show was good although around 35 people and just 3 telescopes to have a look. The guide was not the best either – he couldn't talk interesting. He just said three things about the star we were about to have a look at and then every one queued to have a look and then it was a bit more than half-moon so the moon lighted the sky. We had a look a the star-sign Scorpio (I did noticed the formation), Jupiter (the storm sides were clearly visible), a double star which is actually none as they are not close to each other, have different age and size and a look at the moon itself. T he next day we added another night to our stay as the UHF radio arrived in the afternoon – now we've to fit it which is not so easy...
23-27 September
After printing and posting the cashback stuff for the netbook we're going west... until we stopped in Dalby. Bigger town with Coles, Woolie, Harvey Norman and Hungry Jack's. We erected the tent and went for the “discover-jog” actually Tom jogged and I just walked as my knee is still hurting.
We headed out to the Bunya Mountain Range named by the Bunya trees – a pine tree which tree nuts grow up to soccer ball size and could weigh in at 10kg. You've to be really careful during the summer months as they fall down. This mountain range was a big meeting place for the Aborigines. We walked several tracks, one should have gone down to a chute - I guess an entry to a cave for mining, the Scenic Route at Dandebah - around trees, past waterfalls (not much water falling) and nearly onto a Redbellied black snake (you shouldn't do this as this one is poisonous).
Then we saw a parrot which liked to get photographed – we couldn't scare him away it needed a brush turkey to do so. The last trip was to a lookout. It was good although we had better views while walking to the designated lookout area. We even noticed several people ignoring the total fire ban signs – they lit their fire but didn't sit close by... I guess that's how bushfires can start. Back in Dalby we wanted to have dinner at the RSL club but it was too crowed, the same story was at the pub (and you couldn't get anything for less than 20$) so we had to go to Jack.
Next day was time for the Army Flying Museum in Oakey. Little museum with airplanes and helicopters flown by Army from WWI onwards. There was even a display of the Red Baron, a Bell helicopter and flying box... the guy in the shop topped it all as he could tell a lot of stories about the airplanes as he flew for the Army.
After lunch we went to the Jondaryan Woolshed (www.jondaryanwoolshed.com.au) – an open air museum of rural Australian life. We arrived in time for a guided tour, telling us stories about the houses we're going thru, sheep sharing demonstration and dog working (guarding and droving the sheep). I even had a comb in my hand and was using the “sheep sharing assistance rail”. The next dust storm arrived this evening but it was less windy so the dust settled quicker.
Next day was driving again – we stopped in Roma, the township where they found gas for the first time in Australia. We wanted to stay and have a look at the night show but couldn't get a camp site... there was no possibility to get our pegs into the ground (I think we've to buy steel pegs for the rougher ground) so we kept on driving until reaching Mitchell, stayed one night at the Caravan Park until heading off town to a free camp spot... (recommended by Grey Nomads).
19-22 September
Back on the road – direction Toowoomba. We stopped at the tourist information in Hampton and discovered the offer of Soft 4WD tours. Drove to the campsite at Lake Cressbrook and started the first drive “Hampton – Crows Nest Falls – Maria Creek”. You're guided via notes on the logbook – at kilometre 20.1 turn left – The trip was a good start with one downturn – I got heavily travelsick... The next day we opted for drive G and E which took us north up to Yarramunda. The drives were good and well described. We even had a look at the campsite in the national park “Crows Nest Falls” - it might have been cheaper but most likely no showers, electric BBQ or shelter. And the waterfall was not visible at all – everything was dried out.
The other national park was completely different – noisy (fruit bats hanging in the palm trees), full of shade and felt wet and damp. The next day drive took us south. It was the hardest of all drives and it was my turn to drive. It started nice and easy with the Beutels lookout and then onto a forest drive with several descents and ascents. Some had to be driven in low gear and several times the road got quite narrow, had deep bumps and was slippery. But we came out alive and the towbar just bumped twice into the ground. On the way back we had a quick look into Toowoomba city.
The next day we went for the last drives – but they were ok but not as hard as the other one. As usual we had one problem while navigating – misread one note and ended up in the quarry and had to do a U-turn. In the afternoon we returned to the camp site and actually played a bit beach volley- and basketball. There were courts and balls provided so we really had to use them. It felt so good to be this active again. While having dinner one of the other campers screamed like hell – they just had a brown snake crawling through their campsite – 1m away from their seats.
We had our snake encounter already – it was blocking our way back into the car. It was a green-yellow 2m long snake (most likely a carpet snake) it decided to pass underneath our car. We waited for around 5 minutes to ensure it's gone and entered the car via the same door. Of course we saw other snakes while driving but it's not the same when you're sitting in your car. The other animal encounters we had in the park were with the friendly kangaroos (big family including the little ones in the womb) and the deer from a distance.
This evening the conditions have changed, there was a total fire ban and the next morning the change got even further. Sunrise was at the usual time but it felt as it set already two hours later at 8am. It got so cold that we had to put our jumpers back on. I guess there is a dust storm not far away. It got so cloudy, dusty and windy you could hardly see 100m and every surface just cleaned was was dusty within 20 minutes. The sun was still out but just visible as a silver dot high in the sky – looked spooky.
Today we drove to Toowoomba and stopped at the German Cuckoos clock house – a lot of clocks and other black forest things in it. At the next camp we got the confirmation about the dust storm. It was all over the news as it got down to Sydney and reached Auckland later the night. They had to close Sydney airport due to poor visibility. The Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House weren't visible from Macquarie's Chair and the other buildings looked orange. I don't want to have further dust storms anymore as the nights are much more cooler than the other days...
Cu, Anja & Tom
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
15-18 September
It was time to say good bye to the Landcruiser Mountain Park - we headed to Kilcoy and set the tent up at the council campground and decided on the next stop - Neurum Creek Bush Retreat - just 20km east of Kilcoy. Another campground surrounded by forest so we could go hiking. This area has more wildlife than the Landcruiser Park. Our visitor at night included wallabies, possums or bandicoot (we’re not 100% sure) and there might be platypus in the creek, we’ve already spotted the turtles.
Our first hike was going uphill - luckily there was no rain otherwise the track was impassable as it goes uphill through a waterbed over rocks and stones. We had to climb hard - it helped that we had the indoor climbing course some years ago. On reaching the top of the mountain we could see up to the
Glass Mountain range which is close to the Sunshine Coast. Before returning to the tent we chilled our feet in the creek - it’s not deep enough to go for a swim and probably would be too cold anyway but it was nice for the feet to cool down. Then we used the time to relax a bit – the trip took us around 2 hours. But the guy from the campground was surprised that we were so fast and didn't get lost... we commented the track is well signposted apart of one section where you had to climb underneath a fence.
The last day we got the hint that there are waterholes in the Mt. Mee National Park close by. So car ready packed and going into the waterhole direction. While fetching our swimsuits the ranger advised that there is another waterhole which is actually much nicer – a bit more isolated, with a little waterfall and accessible via dirt road – 4WD recommended and you could even camp close by. We just stopped to have a little swim. Actually I had a little swim and Tom just a refreshing drop. The water was clear and ice cold – so you were really glad being out of the water.
On the way out of the park we stopped at another waterfall but this one had much less water and no waterholes for swimming. As this area is not far away from Brisbane (just 90 minutes by car) we enjoyed some views and have to remember the area so we can discover it further when staying in Brisbane. The area is called D'Aguilar Range and Mt. Mee National Park with camping spots open all year round (although some might be closed during spring). The other spot we've to remember is the Somerset region: www.somerset.qld.gov.au and www.lockyervalley.qld.gov.au
Cu, Anja & Tom
11-14 September
It was time to say good bye to Coolum Beach - we’re heading to the “Landcruiser Mountain Park” in the Coast hinterland (60km north of Kilcoy). This meant it was the first time for me to go off-road. The park is designated for 4WD, several tracks on different grades from easy to hard. I know I’ll be scared every time I’m going off-road and there will be and hills and bumps. It’s such a hard work to spot the obstacles before they hit you. Our closest neighbours here are some other campers but mostly cows, deer, ducks and of course roos. I don’t have any idea what else might come out at night. But now it’s time to close the Netbook as it’s getting so dark I can hardly see and have to get closer to the fire to keep warm. Next morning and I can keep writing as we’ve sunlight again. We had the fire burning for some time, kept pocking all the time so it will burn completely. Unfortunately we didn’t buy any potatoes and the office shop didn’t had some either so we couldn’t do some baked potatoes - we have to keep th is in mind when we’re shopping next time… The fire was good, little red spots on the wood - beautiful sight when no other light was around also the stars were good visible. No wonder - there is nothing around - the closest village is 60km away so there are not many city lights which can distur
b the view. The only other lights were from the fellow campers and the more advanced and experienced 4WD which went out for a night run and then it was time to say good night - crawling into the tent and sleeping bag and listen to the night sounds.
After a good night sleep (wasn’t really too cold - I woke just twice due to a cold chill) we had breakfast under the watchful eye of two kookaburras and starting the day with the next drive or with the first look at the competition [Superior All Terrain Competition]. Our first look at the competition lasted for 2 hours, it was interesting. The cars looked quite funny, some looked more like a spider than a car and they drove thru terrain you wouldn’t believe and of course over rocks - one nearly fell over but managed to stay on the wheels. One car, called Barbie, had to be maintenance when we arrived - they had to do something under the car or so… it was standing on the wheel jack with one wheel off but they didn’t touch the reserve.
After we had enough, it gets boring after a while (you can just watch them from a bit of distance) we went back into the park to have a look at further tracks. Unfortunately most tracks were too hard for us or the car so we started on one and had to turn around. Most times we walked the track before driving. And we had to cross two creeks which still had some water so we had to test the depth…
Next day and the sun came out to warm us and dry the tent. Today we tested our recovery equipment, the winch and the exhaust jack. Both is working well - you just have to be careful using the jack and watch that the “air” can flow directly into the ball. We’ve tried the winch with and without the U-Bolt to experience the difference - it was a lot easier with the U-Bolt. We winched the car directly towards the tree and over the stones we placed in front of the tyres. In the afternoon we were completely scared because of the smoke coming out of the forest behind our tent. We had to be assu
red by the park owner that there is no danger. As it’s just spring everyone is doing some kind of back burning and one fire was burning on the property next to the camping spot. We could hear the fire and the smoke was coming directly at our tent so we were already packing our stuff to move further down the road, closer to the park exit and more on the lawn. The owner came around and told us that the fire wouldn’t come before Monday afternoon if at all. The fire was burning on the other side of the hill and it burns really slow downhill. And of top of it all the woods behind us were state forest so there would be fire trucks if the there would be any danger. So we stayed where we were and he was right. At night we even got a beautiful side formed by the fire. The sunset was more red than the days before and we could really see the fire glowing in the distance colouring the mountain head
red. Next morning you couldn’t see any of the fire - it was too damp during the night. Ah before I forget to tell - we bought potatoes so we had our baked potatoes from the camp fire with baked fish and peas as side - was working really well and was delicious.
Cu, Anja & Tom
5-10 September
Now we've one week to discover the Sunshine Coast. – This is on our agenda: driving with the Mary Valley Rattler, visit a Gold Mining museum, check the Big Pineapple, have a look at the bigger cities, go into the Hinterland and get a glimpse of Fraser Island.
The train ride (Valley Rattler) was great – old steam train (carriages were built between 1920 and 1950). You could see a lot of the country side during the ride. The little gold mining museum was ok although half was closed due to breeding Mac Pies.
We paid our visit to the Big Pineapple on our trip thru the Hinterland. On this drive we walked to some waterfalls, underneath some big trees (Giant Fig Trees and Giant Stinging Tree [never touch any leaf nor on the tree neither on the ground] and followed by the sound of a catbird (it cries more like a baby). We even saw some younger people which kept our head turning – 4 people travelling in a two-seater camper...
Our glimpse at Fraser Island was really a glimpse... we took the inland way to Rainbow Beach as the tide was not right to go via the beach. Rainbow Beach is the town from which you can set over to Fraser Island. The inland way was a rough 4WD track with several washouts, bumps... but they were no problems for us but we nearly got stuck on the way to a beach camp ground – the car is not made to travel on soft sand – this means that we can't head over to Fraser Island. Anyway we watched other cars setting over – really interesting how the barge is working – just go to the waters edge, lower the ramp and the cars can drive on or off...
Today we head south to the Underwater World near Maroochydore - the Aquarium/Oceanium on the Sunshine Coast. It was good - we just arrived with the start of the Seal Show, watched the Otter Show and then by luck participated in the Ray feed and talk. The other animals on display were turtles, fishes, sharks and so on and on. Their shark tunnel was really good as you didn’t had to walk through/underneath it - you could drive-walk on the walkway, just step off if you want to take any pictures. The last exhibition was called “scary and crawly”. it was about spiders, lobsters and other underwater crawling animals… for lunch we discovered a Thai restaurant directly at the wharf and it was really good. Then we headed further to see if we could get a Netbook in one of the shops and were successful - luckily we stepped into the Good Guys before having a look at Caloundra as the shop closed at 5pm even on a Thursday. We just walked down the beach in Caloundra - this city is definitely more touristic than Coolum Beach, a real promenade lots of restaurants and of course more high-rise buildings.
Cu, Anja & Tom
1-4 September
Finally we are off!!! Packed everything and went north. First stop was Kempsey, then onto to Brisbane as Byron Bay can wait. In Brisbane we spent two nights – just sightseeing and walking and using the river ferries. Then we decided to go to the Su
nshine Coast.
On the way we saw the sign 'Australia Zoo' so we had a look at the zoo opened by the Irvin family. We spent around 6h there and did see everything including the crocodile show, the show of birds of prey.
It was good, although the show were a bit careful but still the snake which can swim nearly escaped, one bird didn't want to come back... luckily we picked a day during school term so you had a chance to see something in the enclosures.
Cu, Anja & Tom