11. – 31. December

We drove to Townsville mainly to visit Magnetic Island. We arrived on time to board directly onto the ferry to Magnetic Island and purchased a daily bus ticket. We drove to the northern part and walked along  the promenade and to the lookout. From the lookout you could see Townsville, the ferries boarding and of course the ocean. After the walk we took the bus across the island to Horseshoe Bay on the south side. We went swimming and walked to a beach only accessible by foot or boat. Back in Townsville we discovered that the RAAF base museum is open on Sundays so the plan for the next day was set.

The RAAF museum was quite interesting. The guide showed us around and explained a lot of the things which were on display. Most displays were about the involvement in Vietnam War. Unfortunately there were no big planes we could look at. After spending two hours we left for Brisbane. We even stopped at a Driver Reviver and chatted to the guys for an hour or so.

On the drive south we stopped at a Dam close to Gladstone before we headed to Agnes Water and the Town of 1770. Finally we’re again in the region possible for surfing and of course we saw several surfing. We stopped at a caravan park which has just opened and wasn’t finished yet – the camp-kitchen was not ready. But we made the best of it and had our dinner on our picnic rag for the amusement of the other guests. We also went swimming and could dive the waves again. More fun than just be inside the water.

After some de-tours (never trust the GPS as only source) we finally arrived in Brisbane and got our car lifted by 2inches. But unfortunately we had to go to the guys again to get every thing right. Luckily we found a good caravan park with good amenities, pool and BBQ area. We visited the Queensland Museum with the Scientific section and on the other days we kept it quiet and relaxed as far as you could relax as it was raining most of the time.

Now we hope you spent your Christmas well and have a good start into 2010. Enjoy the fireworks where ever you’re watching.

Cheers and until next year, Anja and Tom

 

7. – 10. December

After leaving Mission Beach we stopped at the Tully Gorge to look if the Tully River is a good spot for White Water Rafting. The river has more water than Barron River and we could see several rapids but it looked a bit harmless. Probably the most interesting thing is how do they get the rafts from the street to the river (50m below)? Easy, they hang them onto ropes and wire them down.

Our next stop was Murray Falls. Unfortunately you can only watch the fall from lookouts. But you could access the water 100m below and you could camp. You could even enjoy cold showers under the sky. We decided to keep on driving.

We arrived in Cardwell and did the forest drive to have a look at the different lookouts featuring the town and Hinchinbrook Island. Then we walked through the Edmund Kennedy National Park where you can see mangroves and rainforest. If you’re lucky (or early) you might spot some  rare birds. You could also see a rare palm species (Arenga palm) but we didn’t know how it looks. Unfortunately you can’t swim in the ocean (too many crocs) but luckily there are some freshwater swimming holes. We spent an afternoon at the 5 Mile Swimming Hole and tested our flotation tools.

The next day we took the cruise to Hinchinbrook Island. We were just 10 people on board so they took the small one – it looked much nicer than it actually was. They had white leather seats but they were so uncomfortable you wouldn’t believe it and there was not much room left with 10 people on board. We drove to the island and then through some mangrove channels to Ramsey Beach from which the 4-day walking trek also starts. As we just did a daytrip we just spend one hour on the beach and we saw a little ray swimming within 1m offshore. Then we headed to another place and started the little walk (5km) to the Resort. The walk started directly at the beach, went through some rainforest before another beach-path (2km) and then via forest track to the resort. We had a look at the turtle bay as well. Unfortunately we didn’t see any turtles and got wet feet. Finally we spent some time at the pool before returning to Cardwell. The resort itself is closed at the moment as it’s wet and cyclone season.

After spending the night at a rest-area close to the highway (and we had a good night sleep) we drove to the Wallaman Falls – the highest sheer drop in the Southern Hemisphere. The falls drops 270m and creates a 20m deep pool. You can view the waterfall from different lookouts but we just looked from the top ones – didn’t walk to the base lookout as there were too many biting flies.

 

Then we drove to Jarouma Falls (yes again a waterfall) but this time we walked to the lookout and the walk was unusual as you had to cross the creek several times. Luckily they created a path with stone piles so you could relay on them and it was easier to cross the water. I mean there was not much water flowing but you could see that this could change quickly. If the water-level rises you might get caught in the area as you already had to cross the creek to access the area.

Crystal Creek was the last stop for the day and we had our refreshing swim after putting up the tent. When you’re at the camp site you can’t imagine that there is such a beautiful and actually big waterhole just meters away. You had to walk 200m from the camp site over some rocks and then you could slide into the water. The water was crystal clear and deep – we still could see the ground but no way of touching it. It might have been 3m deep. The water temperature was nice and didn’t change if you swam in the afternoon or early in the morning at 6.00am.

CU, Anja and Tom

2. – 6. December

We left Cairns to go back into the Atherton Tablelands – there were still some things to discover. First we stopped at the Davies Creek National Park. Of course it had a waterfall incl. swimming and a picnic with camp areal. We had a look first at the fall before we went swimming. Actually you couldn’t really swim – not enough water and space so we more likely relaxed in the water which formed a little spa and a bathtub. The picnic area is nice – directly at the creek so we enjoyed our lunch there.

Then we tried some other vehicle – we were driving a GoKart at the Mako GoKart International Raceway. It was a circuit of 411m and  each session runs for 8 minutes which gives you 18 laps at max. I just managed to go for 12 and Tom for 15 so we have time for improvements. Only if the track is not busy I would do it again… We also played a round of minigolf and again it isn’t really my sport and Tom is much better than I am. The night we’ve spent at Rocky Creek Memorial Park again. And Bruno and Terry (the dog and caretaker) recognized us and enjoyed our company once more.

Coffee Works in Mareeba was again our stop – any ticket is valid for 4 weeks so we had to come back and taste the chocolate, coffee and tea.

Later that day we started the waterfall circuit close to Millaa Millaa. There are three along a 15km way. At the Millaa Millaa fall you could nearly touch the base of the fall – if you dare to swim that close. But you can just have a look at the Zillie Falls. They are fenced in but there are still enough people ignoring sign and climb over fences and go directly to the water. The last fall, Elijaa, is visible from the top and bottom – there is a walk but you can’t go for a swim. We took the scenic route to our planned camp so we could look at some more waterfalls.  We drove to the Souita Falls which are around 15km off the scenic route and had to stop due to the rush hour of cows – it was time for giving milk. The Pepina falls are directly at the scenic route. We also looked at the Tully Fall but the water didn’t fall at all. You could just see some water on the top and on the bottom of the fall but nothing in between. If there would have been any water it would drop around 200m.

Paronella Park (www.paronella.com.au) – Queensland no. 1 to visit – was our next stop. It’s a park which was developed by Jose Paronella in 1930. He built several buildings including a ballroom, tennis court and change rooms. It was popular to go there and play  tennis or just go for a swim in the Mena creek. He also planted several trees which are forming a walkway. There are several micro bats nesting in the artificial tunnel which fly out at night. We did the night tour which is good. The guide explains things about the park and you could see some buildings and the waterfall illuminated.

Our next stop was Mission Beach where we just relaxed and enjoyed swimming and the sun. You could actually go for some walks and jump the beach. But we weren’t in the mood for skydiving. It was interesting to see them landing right in front of your eyes. While we were watching none had to swim, they were all landing right on the sand.

CU, Anja and Tom

27. November – 1. December

Back in Cairns but this time for a longer period so we can inspect the beaches and go swimming in the ocean. We had a look at Palm Cove, Trinity Beach, Ellis Beach, Holloman’s Beach as well as Yorkey’s Knob. It’s really important to swim between the flags as this is the netted area. The netted area gives you safety against the crocodiles and jelly fish. The jelly fish are nearly more dangerous than the crocs. You can’t spot any jelly fish in the water and these ones can have tentacles up to 3m longs. We’ve been for around 4h at the beach and went several times into the water. The other days we spent less time at the beaches.

Of course you could go swimming in freshwater – there are several around Cairns. We went to Crystal Cascades. You can walk alongside the creek for around 1000m. There are little falls and rapids which form some pools in which you could swim. One other place is Lake Placid within the Barron Gorge. This lake is actually not a real lake. The Barron River formed an area similar to a lake. The Barron River is also used for green electricity. We drove to the power station and visited the information centre. They showed a video providing views of the Barron River in the wet season and after a wet cyclone. Unbelievable how much water suddenly came down the river and how quickly a street crossing was flooded. This area is also used for White Water Rafting every afternoon.

In the end we couldn’t resist and take the Kuranda Scenic Railway which goes from Cairns to Kuranda, around 35km and 350m elevation. The train needs around 90 minutes for the trip but you see so much during the trip – the time nearly flies by. You get beautiful views to the ocean, to the waterfalls close to the track and through 15 tunnels. Some waterfall will actually spit water onto the railway in wet season. Every day there are two trains which has two locomotives and at least one is coloured in. Unfortunately the Barron River Falls didn’t had much water so it was just a drip and not a fall. In Kuranda was not much to do for us – there are several shops, markets and some zoos. We walked along the river, through the forest and across a creek before we headed back to Cairns. We opted to take the train for the return instead of the Skyrail.

We used the possibility to see the reef from the air - just a little airplane (max. 4 peoples) and for around 90 minutes. This scenic flight went up the coast to Port Douglas and then we turned to the reef. We passed over Batt- Norman-, Michaelmas Reef, Vlasoff Cay and Green Island. During the flight we saw some turtles, reef sharks, rays as well as several snorkel cruises. It was amazing to see the reef from the air, you can describe the dimensions. While flying along the coast line we could see how the Barron River goes to the ocean – it makes some remarkable “pictures”. We were lucky that the pilot and third passenger were not tall – so they could slide their seats forward and we had space for our legs. We just had to be careful when entering the plane.

24. – 26. November

Next morning we drove back to Cape Tribulation and were surprised to reach it so quickly – the river crossings were so easy it makes a different if you cross them directly at low tide. We did the boardwalks we missed on our earlier visit. On one side you could do a long and short walk of course we aimed for the long one but couldn’t find the entry (the orange markers were hidden in the trees) so did the short walk before. We had icecream (goji with honey and black sarpet with liquor), looked at two beaches and took the ferry back to Mossman.

In Mossman we looked at the gorge but it was really crowded (several tour busses) and half was closed due to walkway upgrade so we decided to camp close by and go for a swim the next morning. Unfortunately it rained next morning so we looked for something else.

We decided to visit the Hartley’s crocodile adventures a park dedicated to crocodiles. When we arrived we cruised the lagoon first and saw several crocs in their (near) natural environment. It’s unbelievable how hard they’re to spot in the water. You can see them one minute and the next one they’re gone. They feed the crocs during the cruise but it only works if the big male (5m) is not around – otherwise the smaller ones (4m) won’t come out and only the small ones get fed. Of course they have several crocodile enclosures with fresh- and saltwater crocodiles. We probably spent 30 minutes looking at the enclosures and saw more and more crocs. They are so hard to spot especially when only the eyes are out of the water.

We also watched the show “croc’s attack”. It was interesting and again the croc was hard to see in the water. There were two zoo keeper but just one entered the pool and fed the crocodile. But the crocodile hat its own mind and didn’t want to do what the keeper wished for. They performed the dead roll just with some bait. The dead roll is how crocs really kill their prey. Today the croc didn’t want to release the bait and kept it in his mouth so it looked like a dog on a leash. I don’t know when it released the rope but definite not after 15 minutes when we walked past again. I guess the croc thought this was a special lunch treat.

Then we walked through the Cassowaries garden. Luckily one was in  picture mood – he was staying in pose for several minutes. He even talked to us – I guess Stephen Spielberg heard them before he did “Jurassic Park” as the sound was close to the ones from the dinosaurs.

 

At this park they also farm crocodiles – they had to find other ways  to fulfil the demand for crocodile leather. The crocodiles will grow until they’re 1.5m and then they get checked for their skin – if the skin is good (no bite or scratch marks) they get sold for the leather industries otherwise they’ll be used for the farm.

We made some more friends in the park although I doubt that it will  remember us… we fed/gave water to a lizard. It’s easy done especially if you’re two persons. You should start rolling a little leaf so you can pour water in and then go to your knees so you’re nearly on the same level as the lizards eyes. The other person should try to distract the lizard and get him used to some noises close around – a good way is to throw little stones 20cm away from the lizard. The person with the leaf should hold the leaf in front of the lizard and most likely it will come close and lick the water – really cute.

22. – 23. November

Finally it was time to head south again but low tide is early in the morning so we decided to camp before the big causeway crossing. Possible campsites are the Lion’s Den or Home Rule. Lion’s Den is an old still running pub so the garden was full of beer bottles and you could smell the beer everywhere. Then we had a look at the other campground but were a bit disappointed as there was nobody we could ask so we just had lunch and moved on.

We stopped in Ayton at Harley’s Cabin and Camping.  This campground was close to the ocean – we could hear the waves and of course went to the beach to have a look. The beach looked nice although not good for swimming, river-mouths on both sides so you can be sure to find crocs.

The next day we dedicated to waterfalls – the Bloomfield and Roaring Meg Waterfall. We could discuss if the waterfall gave the name to the track of if the track was named first and then the waterfall. The Bloomfield Waterfall is really close to the main street we just needed 20 minutes to get there. We walked the final meters to the base of the fall. But we could only take some pictures as crocodiles love this area.

It was  a different story with the Roaring Meg Waterfall. First of all we had to get a permission and it was a 90 minutes drive just on dirt road. The road is called Creb Track and connects Cape Tribulation with Wujal Wujal but the track was only open until China Camp. The first part of the track were really good, just one river to c ross and two gates to go through. After the third gate, the entry to the Timber Reserve the road condition has changed. The road became steep, narrow and stony. Several times i had to arrange the stones and guide Tom but we made it and walked to the falls.

This time we could only walk to the top of the falls and couldn’t see the base. For the local Aborigines this place is for females but we couldn’t find a sign which said “men don’t move on”. Then we explored the beach in the middle of a mountains. It even had sand to walk into the water. It was really refreshing but you still had to take care that the rapids won’t wash you away. After two hours we headed back to our tent.

Recently there must have been a bush fire. We saw several burned trees on the side of the road as well as a big tree trunk lying across the street. It was still smelling after fire, was really hot and inside the tree trunk it was actually still burning.

19. – 21. November

Now we have reached Cooktown – probably the furthest north we could come at this time as the wet season is approaching and you have to cross several rivers (which could be up to 2m deep) to go up Cape York Peninsula. We visited the Botanic Garden, walked to the Finch Beach, had a look at the wharf and Endeavour River. They've created a little historic walk to learn more about Captain Cook's influence and what happened to him when he was stranded.  And we're getting into music – the second city which has some kind of musical instrument for public use. Here it's a musical ship (I guess it should resemble the Endeavour). Of course we had a go – there was a drum, a xylophone, something similar to an organ. Unfortunately I couldn't remember any notes of any songs otherwise we could have played a song as the instruments were tuned.

Then we drove up the hill to the lighthouse and had a beautiful view along the coastline and across the Endeavour River – let see how this place look at sunrise or sunset.

We also booked a tour for some Aborigines Rock Painting. The tour was around 40km out of town and done by a local Aborigine. We did the Rainbow Serpent tour which meant walking for 4h. The guy showed us several bush tucker, explained how to get soap in the bush and natural band-aid. The rock painting were about the spritual and practical things in life – like giving birth, being a teacher, using a boomerang, getting to know the wild life.

Last but not least we relaxed in Cooktown – the Big4 caravan parks promoted camping and offered a free nights stay so we couldn’t say no.